Return to Rome

Final coffee and cornetto near the apartment. A slow walk down Via dei Servi one last time. No rush.

Check out and head to Santa Maria Novella station with bags. Aim for a 10:00–11:00 AM departure south.

The high-speed train south through Tuscany and into Lazio. Arrive in Rome by early afternoon — you know this city now. This arrival is more relaxed than the first one.

Tram 8 runs directly from Largo di Torre Argentina to Trastevere — one of the most pleasant ways to arrive in the neighborhood, watching Rome slide past the windows. Alternatively, a short cab ride is fine.

Check into the apartment at Vicolo del Leopardo 32 — drop everything, breathe. Trastevere is one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Rome — narrow medieval streets, ivy-covered buildings, the smell of food coming from every direction. Take a moment to let it land. Check-in is from 2:00 PM.

The heart of the neighborhood — the 12th-century basilica on one side, a fountain in the center, café tables spilling out onto the square. Sit here for twenty minutes and watch the afternoon. The basilica's interior is one of the most beautiful in Rome — gold mosaic apse, Cavallini's magnificent 13th-century mosaics on the nave. Worth going in.

Just get lost. The streets of Trastevere are made for wandering. Small boutiques, leather goods shops, bookstores, ceramics. The neighborhood rewards aimlessness more than most. Follow the narrow alleys and see where they lead.

Legendary tiny craft beer bar — always packed, great energy, the kind of place that defines a neighborhood. The name translates roughly as "What did you come here for?" in Roman dialect. Excellent rotating selection of Italian and European craft beers. Standing room only, spills out onto the alley.

A Trastevere institution in a converted auto repair shop — good spritz, generous aperitivo spread, and a crowd that spills out onto the piazza. Livelier and slightly more scene-y than Ma Che Siete, but a great place to start the evening. The free aperitivo food with drinks is substantial.

Roman classics done perfectly — one of the best restaurants in the neighborhood and one of the best trattorias in Rome. Cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, carciofi alla giudia, carbonara. Everything is made with the kind of care that makes Roman cucina great. Small room, very popular. Book well ahead.

Lively outdoor seating, great cacio e pepe, very fun. The kind of restaurant where you sit outside on a warm October evening and feel like you're living in a Roman holiday. More casual than Da Enzo, great for a first relaxed evening in the neighborhood.

Slightly quieter than the other options — excellent seafood-leaning Roman menu, beautiful room, and the kind of restaurant where dinner feels like a proper occasion without requiring you to dress up. Excellent fish-focused pasta dishes and a lovely wine list.